dimanche 11 octobre 2009

Central Asia

What about going on a marathon 5-country 5-day tour? Well, this is what I did in Central Asia, visiting Turkmenistan, Tadjikistan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Kirghizstan. This was probably the best way to learn about the names of their president, their capital and their currency. First stop was Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan. It is a strange capital city, with the important builidings built by the French company Buygues and the other by Turkish firms. All this leaves a taste of modernism but without any social life. The most famous building is the one pictured below - the arch of neutrality, with a huge statue of the old president on top. And the best is that the golden statue rotates with the sun...!
The other modern capital in the region is Astana, in Kazakhstan. A town which was a little village still 15 years ago. It is the equivalent of Brazilia or Abuja. At least, the planning is well done. The highlight is this palm tree with its fruit in the middle. There one can put its hand inside an engravings of the president's hand and, facing the president's palace, make a wish.Another interesting landmark is the pyramid. The inside is particularly nice with a indoor tropical garden, a huge concert hall, and some lightplays so that the country's flag is reflected in the main hall. These cities are definitely an architect's paradise.
Still the major player in the region is Uzbekistan, with the capital city Tashkent as the hub. It is the fourth biggest city in the old Soviet area and has a well functioning underground system. The main indoor market is a lively place, where one can buy spices, dried fruits, fresh products, clothing, etc. Still we heard about a peculiar economic problem: there is not enough banknotes physically available. So people have money in their account but cannot have it available in cash...
The capital was almost totally destroyed by an earthquake in 1966. So the cultural gems are to be found to the South, in particular Samarkand. This town was a key passage point on the silk road. The town has many beautiful architectural complexes, including the Tomb of the Kings pictured below. The town has a very special structure.
The town was also a center of islamic studies, with the Registan being its most fascinating element. This owes much to Timur, who made this city a regional trade and cultural center.
We had the chance to see it both with the last sun rays and with the night lighitngs. Beautiful. Still a question remains: how easy would it have been to concentrate there on the studies with so many well decorated and designed buildings?

Serbia

Belgrade is at the confluent of the Danube and the Sava River, as pictured above. A city at the heart of the Balkans, which was occupied/freed by many forces over the centuries. This trouble past is still very much present today. In the capital, there are buildings showing visible traces of the NATO bombings a decade ago. Violence also takes the form of hooliganism and we were there the day a young French football fan died after being stabbed by Serbian supporters. A march was organised in the capital to show that part of the society is in favour of peaceful solutions. What is also special for a curious eye, is that the tramway coming up is an old specimen from Basel. We exported our trams there.
The next day, we boarded the blue train, the famous train of Yugoslavia's ex-president Tito. And we had the opportunity to meet with his impersonation. He told us everything about the train, the celebrities who spent a day or even more on the train. There are a few en-suite wagons and also a banquet room. Socialism is definitely not always equal to modesty. Today, the train has been refurbished for tourists, unlike the rest of the rail infrastructure.
The train ride led us to Sremski Karlovci, a charming and well-renovated town. It is a school town especially for the orthodox church. We went walked in, we were treated to songs by a male choir. Later on, at a school, we saw children wearing dresses of various ethnic groups perform their traditional dance. And in the evening, we enjoy a typical Serbian supper, including with violonists.