mercredi 31 décembre 2014

Peru - Cuzco and Machu Picchu

Indeed a suggestion when travelling to Peru - keep Machu Picchu for last. It is so impressive! I am going to do the same now, and first report on flying to Cuzco over the Andes. Beautiful mountains and quite some snow left.
With this altitude, a good way to acclimatise is a cup of coca tea. You do not need to get high, because you are already high...
Cuzco is quite a sprawling city, with very well preserved historical buildings.
There is quite an interesting mix between Spanish and Quechua/Inca architectures.There are many cathedrals which seem to compete for the attention of the believers. In one of the church, it is quite remarkable that the local version of Jesus' "last supper" has a cuy/guinea pig in the plate. 
Also, the walls of many churches and buildings reuse stonewalls built by the Quechua/Inca.
Not even a tour through the sacred valley, a visit of the sites of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, and the train ride on Perurail to Agua Caliente can prepare you for the awesome Machu Picchu. After a short bus ride up the mountain (yes, no need to climb the mountain anymore - well, you can still do the climb, especially if it is the last bit of your inca trail), you get to the entrance of the site and after a short walk you get this amazing view. What a site! What a scenery!
The city is well maintained and seems so functional with dedicated neighbourhoods. There are the boy's and girl's schools, the apartments for the king and his family (with en-suite bathroom...), elaborated waterways, an industrial area, as well as several astronomical constructions. The guide was quite proud to tell us that the good condition of the ruins, with walls still standing, was testament of the superior architectural skills of the quechuas/incas. They knew how to build structures that would withstand earthquakes. But, talking to people who visited the site in the 60s, I suspect that Peruvians might have rebuilt some of the walls, structures, and houses to make it even more attractive for tourists.
This ancient quechua/inca city was still being built when the Spanish arrived in Cuzco. Since Machu Picchu was dependent on food and instructions coming from Cuzco, its people abandoned it when Cuzco was conquered. The Spanish never discovered it - indeed it was only in late 19th century/early 20th century that Machu Picchu was re-discovered. It is really nice to walk around the site. Arriving early in the morning allows you to enjoy it also all to yourself. The changing light is also interesting to see. If you are lucky, you might also encounter some friendly llamas.
There is even a secret escape route with a scary-looking wooden bridge crossing the cliff face.

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